đď¸The Ensemble: 5 things you need to know about the war with the Islamic Republic of Iran
+ Plus Milan Fashion Week highlights, and reinventing the WAG. (We're all suffering from breaking news overload this week so H2H is here to serve a bit of reprieve with your headlines)
Itâs been a hectic seventy-two hours since Saturday morning when I woke at 5am to hear the news about the first US attacks on Iran, and itâs been all hands on deck ever since. You may have seen our emergency podcast over the weekend, and Iâve also been on air with MSNOW, Fox News and Times Radio, The Tara Palmeri Show (linked above) and a couple other podcasts sharing what I know from my contacts inside the country, here in the US and in the Iranian regime, or whatâs left of it. Events are moving too fast for the newsletter, so Iâll try and pull back a bit and capture some big themes from the war so far:
Thereâs no clear leader for Iranâs future and thatâs a problem. I wrote before here about the popularity of Reza Pahlavi, the son of the Shah. But I believe Iranâs next leader needs to come from inside the country, among people who have struggled against the regime for decades. The Iranians sent Narges Mohammadi, the Nobel Peace Laureate, back to jail shortly before the war. She could be the kind of Mandela figure who has the moral authority to bring the country together. Equally, an interim leader may emerge who cuts a deal with the US, just like Maduroâs deputy Delcy Rodriguez did in Venezuela. That may satisfy no-one, but it remains a strong possibility. A source familiar with the US administrations thinking tells me theyâre looking for a military (artesh or âarmyâ) / civilian duo to run the country. Pahlavi is not that civilian, Iâm told. For now, itâs rumored Ali Khameneiâs son Mojtaba will be announced to succeed as Supreme Leader. Most recently Hilton hotels had been under investigation by the German authorities for a deal with the sanctioned Supreme Leaderâs son.
This US administration is not being held to account in the ways you would normally expect. It was striking in the first days of the war no administration officials faced the media in the normal way. Thatâs changed in the last few days, but the removal of the official press corps in the Pentagon in favor of politically favored influencers has damaged accountability. It was a British journalist, a former BBC colleague of mine, who pressed Pete Hegseth this morning for the first time on reports that an attack had hit a girlsâs school in Iran in error. President Trump himself has given interviews to a number of favored journalists - sometimes over the phone - but his answers are inconsistent and hard to track, and he has not addressed the nation on TV as one might expect.
The Iranian attacks on other countries in the region are a game-changer. Iran has accepted they are out of options and attacking all their neighbors is a tactic that canât be undone. Previously there were token responses, clearly flagged in advance, against military targets. Now waves of drones and missiles are hitting civilian areas across the region. There is no way back from this for the current regime. Meanwhile for the UAE especially, the pretense of complete safety and security in a volatile region has been shattered. Many expats will stay put, but there are profound implications for the UAE tourism, hospitality and real-estate sectors.
The UK has damaged its alliance with the US by staying out of proceedings in the first 24 hours. President Trump is clearly irritated with Keir Starmerâs decision, even though the UK has now allowed use of its bases for defensive air support by US planes. We noted in recent weeks that the UK would only participate where it felt it had cover from international law, much to the frustration of US allies. The long-term decline of UK military power means they are only now considering sending one ship to defend Cyprus, days after the start of the campaign.
There will be severe economic consequences from the current conflict. The blocking of energy supplies through and around the Strait of Hormuz has raised global oil prices - and will affect prices more widely. There will be significant disruption to shipping, air travel, tourism and trade across the whole region, and this will wash through into other world economies in the coming weeks and months. At best, a swift end to the current campaign will dent confidnce globally and hurt economies which were already affected by the war in Ukraine.
And now onto some other newsâŚbecause we all need something to lift our spirits.
Demnaâs Gucci: Sexy, Polarizing and in Full Transition
Part of the reason we included fashion as part of our ethos in the birth of Helmet to Heels was precisely for moments like - when the world is on fire and we need a bit of an escape for the sake of our mental health. For us, thatâs fashion week and awards season, disappearing for a moment into the world of wearable art. Milan Fashion Week on February 27 marked a dramatic rebirth at Gucci as Georgian designer Demna unveiled his first full collection as the houseâs creative director. Dubbed Primavera, the show fused heritage codes with bold new energy: leaving both the fashion elite and online audiences buzzing.
Demna, who took the helm in July 2025 after a decade shaping Balenciaga, set out to refresh Gucciâs image amid years of sliding sales. His goal? A brand that feels âlighter, softer, more emotionalâ, even deliberately âsenselessâ at times, rather than reserved for intellectual couture audiences.
The venue at Milanâs Palazzo delle Scintille was transformed into a dramatic art-gallery-like runway, lined with classical statue replicas that echoed the Renaissance heritage of Gucciâs birthplace.
Instead of only bows and florals, Demnaâs cast walked in looks ranging from seamless mini dresses and legging-pants to shimmering gowns and muscle-fit tops, all designed to hug the body and spark reaction.
Supermodel Kate Moss closed the show in a glittering gown cut with a low back to reveal a bejeweled, double-G thong, a cheeky nod to Tom Fordâs provocative 90s Gucci aesthetic.
The runway itself was full of theatrical moments: dancers in bodycon silhouettes, skaters in motorcycle leathers and internet personalities blurring the line between street subculture and luxury runway.
Emily Ratajkowski, Karlie Kloss, Alex Consani and other names reinforced the showâs mix of glamour and grit.
Unlike the oversized silhouettes Demna championed at Balenciaga, here he celebrated body consciousness. The showâs early looks, a seamless white mini dress followed by tight second-skin pieces, made clear his intent: to re-energize Gucci with sensuality and attitude.
Beauty cues matched this mood. Makeup trended towards dramatic smoky eyes, frosted lips and exaggerated contouring, a 2000s âparty-girlâ aesthetic that resonated across the lineup.
Industry analysts and fashion editors were split. Some saw the show as precise, theatrical and unmistakably Gucci, praising Demna for collapsing runway spectacle into cultural conversation. Others found the body-heavy direction polarizing. A Pambianco News review highlighted how the showâs skin-tight pieces and bodycon emphasis stirred debate over whether this was liberation or mere shock.
With Gucciâs sales down sharply since 2022, Demnaâs appointment was as much about business strategy as artistic expression. Keringâs CEO Luca de Meo underscored the collectionâs see-now, buy-now rollout as a signal of momentum and adaptability.
An iconic moment for the UK underground rap scene was when 21-year old musician Fakemink strutted down the catwalk. Clad in a black T-shirt, bomber and low-slung leather trousers that casually revealed Gucci underwear, he famously paused mid-walk to check his phone before continuing, a gesture instantly framed as both casual and defiantly real in a world of scripted runway perfection. This unconventional casting reflected Demnaâs intent to root Gucciâs new era in authentic underground culture and Gen Z attitude rather than traditional fashion hierarchies, transforming the catwalk itself into a stage for personalities rather than just silhouettes.
Demnaâs debut didnât just signal a new collection, it tested what luxury fashion means in 2026: emotion over concept, body over abstraction, and culture-forward narratives over safe heritage. Whether Gucciâs newfound sex appeal drives commercial resurgence or sparks ongoing debate, one thing is clear: the fashion world is paying close attention.
Sources: Reuters, New York Times, AP News, GQ Magazine
The WAG Rebrand: From Tabloid Trope to Cultural Influence
ââOnce a tabloid shorthand for âwives and girlfriendsâof professional athletes, the term WAG is being rewritten for the 2020s - not as a symbol of dependency, but as a platform of influence in fashion, media and lifestyle. Inspired by the OG WAG Victoria Beckham, it was originally coined by British tabloids to label partners of footballers at the 2006 FIFA World Cup; the acronym carried sexist connotations and reduced women to accessories in sport narratives. How could we forget the mystery that gripped the headlines (and admittedly is one of my favorite stories of all time) WAGatha Christie - a case you can now watch on Hulu, where one WAG sued another for defamation, all kicked off by some expert Instagram sleuthing to find who was leaking stories to the tabloids. The trick? Make a âclose friendsâ IG group, plant some fake gossip with the prime suspect unknowingly in the group, and watch it all unravel.
But that stereotype has shifted dramatically. In 2025 and 2026, the concept of a âWAGâ has become far more complex, fluid and powerful, increasingly associated with independent influence, fashion impact and business ventures rather than simple proximity to male athletes.
In recent years, partners of athletes have amassed their own platforms and followings, often rivaling or exceeding the visibility of their partners. At high-profile events like Wimbledon and the NFL season, figures such as Morgan Riddle, fashion influencer and partner of tennis star Taylor Fritz, and Kristin Juszczyk, designer and wife of NFL player Kyle Juszczyk, have dominated conversations about style on and off the field.
Outlet Sports Illustrated showcased this evolution in its February 2026 digital issue, featuring six women associated with NFL stars including Brittany Mahomes (wife of quarterback Patrick Mahomes) and singer Normani, fiancĂŠe of NFL player DK Metcalf, emphasizing that the WAG label is being redefined as one of influence, independence, and leadership across fashion, business and cultural initiatives.
This shift has not happened in isolation. On social platforms, partners like Alix Earle, whose own influencer career predates her relationship with Miami Dolphins player Braxton Berrios, have converted game-day content into podcasts, sponsored deals and lifestyle branding.
Serious fashion observers have taken note. As The New York Times reported from the stands at major tennis tournaments and sporting events, WAGs increasingly command attention from fashion houses and streetwear brands alike, their outfits scrutinised and celebrated year-round as part of broader style storytelling.
This mirrors a wider industry reckoning: partners of athletes are now considered valuable tastemakers whose sartorial choices influence consumer behaviour and perception. According to reporting by Business of Fashion, this visibility has led luxury and sports brands to court WAGs almost as aggressively as athletes themselves, recognising that outfitting someone in the VIP box can be just as valuable as dressing a player on court or field.
Yet the term still carries baggage. The WAG acronym has drawn criticism from those who argue it can diminish individual identity by tethering achievements to athletic partners. In a PEOPLE feature, partners of NFL players discussed their mixed feelings about the label â some see it as purely descriptive, others find it reductive and outdated.
Despite the discomfort around the term, the cultural moment is clear: the modern WAG is less about being a spectator and more about storytelling, influence and entrepreneurship. Whether attending games as trendsetters, launching fashion lines, building media ventures or commanding front-row seats at fashion weeks, this generation is reshaping what it means to be visible in sports and culture.
In 2026, the WAG isnât just standing beside the athlete, sheâs shaping the narrative.
Sources: Sports Illustrated Lifestyle, Vox, New York Times, Glossy